Champagne Jean Laurent    

Gold. Light. Eternal. Ephemeral.

You now know everything you need to know about Champagne Jean Laurent, but I’ll tell you more anyway. France is ancient wine country. While Champagne’s vineyards are not as old as those in the Mediterranean, they are still over 1000 years of age. That’s how long Jean Laurent’s family has been growing Champagne in the village of Celles sur Ource.

The Aube

The Aube is an outlying district of Champagne. The promotional board has a map that shows the Montagne de Reims (home of Pinot Noir), the Valley of the Marne (Pinot Meunier) and the Cote de Blancs (Chardonnay). In the lower right hand corner of the map in a separate cutout corner is the Aube. Since the beginning the Aube has been a true part of Champagne. It shares the same chalky soil as the rest of Champagne (which crops out again in Chablis and also as the white cliffs of Dover), but it is 70 miles south.

In the fraud-ridden early 1900’s, the French government passed a law limiting Champagne to the Department of the Marne. The Aube growers, victimized by a legitimate but incompetent effort to limit fraud, protested. After they trashed much of Reims the government reinstated the Aube to its rightful status. However in the old pricing system, all Aube vineyards were relegated to the lowest ranks, 75 or 77 (the Grand Crus are 100). As the soil of the best Aube vineyards is of 95 point quality this makes for some interesting values!

Celles sur Ource

The village of Celles sur Ource has the distinction of having the largest number of Estate Bottlers of any village in Champagne – 75 at last count. It is a dusty, magical place with stodgy houses on narrow streets leading up to gorgeous sweeps of hillside vineyards. These provide the world with an abundance of fine Champagne at very good prices. Jean Laurent is one of the 5 or 10 biggest Estates in the village and arguably the best.

A few miles away is the ancient Abbey of Mores where Bernard de Clairvaux founded the Cistercian order. The wine he produced was famous and simply called ‘Le Vin de France’. Monks lucky enough to be based here were allowed 9 1/2 ounces of wine per day although the order in general was abstemious.

Soon after its founding in the 900’s the village was plagued by a dragon, but Saint George came along, killed the dragon and saved the village. This is of course a different dragon and a different Saint George from the those in England. The dragon on the label of Champagne Jean Laurent commemorates this fine history.

Vineyards

The Aube is Pinot Noir territory. Jean also grows Chardonnay but none of his Champagnes contain any Pinot Meunier, the controversial principal grape of Champagne, usually considered inferior. Repeated ploughing and hand care make it possible to severely limit use of herbicides and pesticides. Fertilizer is organic (read ‘manure’). Yields are well below the maximums authorized. Jean has a few employees besides family help but if he’s not in the cellar when I show up I’m directed to the specific vineyard parcel in which he’s working with his own hands.

Winemaking & Champagnes

Winemaking is deeply traditional. A new vertical press was installed recently to improve finesse and for the past 50 years has done its job perfectly. Everything is made in small lots to allow for precise blends.

The basic wine is Blanc de Noirs, nothing complicated, 100% Pinot Noir blended from 3 vintages and aged a minimum of 3 years on the yeast. Complicated, no. Complex, yes. Blanc de Blancs is pure Chardonnay and aged a minimum of 4 years on the yeast. Rose is pure Pinot Noir, this time aged a minimum of 5 years on the yeast.

With this kind of age for basic non-vintage wines, the vintages have to be something special. They can be released as early as 8 years of age but are usually held a little longer (’95’s and the much-praised ‘96’s are almost sold out; ‘98’s will be released early, in 2006). Jean tries to have at least two different vintages on the market at all times, but recent recognition of the quality of his vintage Champagnes now makes them a little hard to find. Unlike most of the Grand Marques, Jean Laurent only declares a vintage when quality warrants it.

The Wines

Jean also has a Treasure Cellar filled with ancient bottles, huge bottles and some ancient huge bottles. These are disgorged and labeled to order and they are not inexpensive. Somebody looking for the perfect anniversary bottle or an impressive monster can ask – as not every year is a vintage year at Champagne Jean Laurent not every vintage is available.

For basic NV Blanc de Noirs there are 1/2 bottles, magnums, 3 and 6 litres. Prices for the bigger bottles are higher, reflecting both the additional hand labor and substantial extra bottle age.

Although the Aube is known as Pinot Noir territory, Jean Laurent’s Blanc de Blancs has enjoyed spectacular success, in both the market and the press. He has purchased two additional acres of Chardonnay and planted another two. Production of both NV and Vintage Blanc de Blancs is increasing to meet demand.

I am happy to say that nothing else has changed at Champagne Jean Laurent.