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Savoie

The Duchy of Savoie – A Brief History

This mountain paradise came so close to staying independent.

The name for the locals is ‘Allobroges’, or ‘Gallic People’. The Romans built two major highways that defined the Duchy – Grenoble to Geneva and Vienne to Milan. On the Grenoble to Geneva road archaeological digs show that 2000 years ago today’s upscale resort of Aix les Bains was… an upscale resort. As long as Europe has been inhabited, Savoy has been sought after as a place to live and vacation.

Throughout the Middle Ages the rulers of Savoy were brilliant at playing off competing powers and expanding their Duchy. Humbert Whitehands, first Count of Savoy, took control of Aosta, Savoy’s first toehold in Piedmont. Aosta’s wine is Carema, a good but lesser Nebbiolo. However it was Humbert’s son Odon who got to marry his Lolita, fifteen year old Adelaïde of Suse, in 1045. With this marriage the Counts of Savoy became the Marquises of Turin, the masters of Piedmont and the owners of Barolo.

In 1264 Odon’s descendant Pierre II established a National Assembly of Savoy, remarkable in that it included equal numbers of nobles and commoners. The Swiss penchant for democracy was equally strong in Savoy. In 1416 Count Amedee VIII of Savoy was made a Prince by Emperor Sigismond of Luxembourg but power was still fully shared with the Assembly (later renamed the Senate) under the Statutes of Savoy. Savoy was independent under the protection of German Emperors.

From the 1500’s to the 1700’s France and then Spain repeatedly invaded Savoy which lost and regained independence. Even when occupied the Savoyards maintained much local autonomy. In 1730 Savoy established Europe’s first land register, confirming all-important deeds to lands and houses for non-noble citizens. Manorial rights and privileges of the Clergy were abolished.

All of this came to a sad end in 1859 when, in a secret treaty, the Count of Cavour traded Savoy to Napoleon III in exchange for 200,000 soldiers – used to conquer Italy. The treaty wasn’t made public until 1928! Even today there is an independence movement in Savoy. It is not as prominent as those in Corsica and the Basque country but regularly gets 5 - 10% of the vote in regional elections.

What a shame! An independent Savoy that included Piedmont could have provided us with a truly huge A to Z range of wines, from A - Apremont the lightest white to B - Barolo and Barbaresco, the richest reds.

Altesse – A Gently Racy Grapy Story

The word ‘Altesse’ literally translates from French as ‘Highness’, as in ‘Your Royal Highness’.

In medieval times, the House of Savoy was an important power in Europe. Its realm extended from north of Geneva to Turin. For centuries people have appreciated its finest red wines, like Barolo and Barbaresco.

For dynastic reasons, a 16th century Duke of Savoy, a progressive, worldly man of 40, was engaged to marry the daughter of the King of Cyprus, a girl of 16. They had never met. One day the King called his daughter to the throne room. “Honey”, he said, “you’ve been a wonderful daughter and I love you very much. Next month you’ll be leaving here forever to marry and live in Savoy. The Duke is a really good man. Have a nice life!”

The Duke sent a substantial entourage, headed by a young Knight, to escort his fiancée and her dowry. The Princess was unhappy and the Knight did everything he could to make her feel better. One morning, as they stood at the door of the Palace, he said, “We’ll take cuttings from these vines facing us in the foothills of the Troodos mountains and plant them in the foothills of the Alps in front of the Ducal Manor to remind you of home”.

The Princess thought the Knight was wonderful. Shortly thereafter, they sailed for Savoy. During the boat trip, the Princess decided that she would show the young Knight exactly how much she liked him. The Knight couldn’t resist.

When they got to Savoy, the Duke, nobody’s fool, quickly realized what was going on. He called the Knight in for a private meeting. He said, “You know that semi-ruined drafty old castle I have north of here, the one on that cold, rainy, windy peak, that the Germans are always attacking?”

“Yes, my Duke ” replied the Knight.

“Well, I’m going to give you a choice – not that you deserve one: You and your “friend” can go live in that castle for the rest of your lives, defend it for me against the Germans and never set foot here again, or you can go to the dungeon and stay there until you are carried out.”

“Duke, you are a great man, a wise and humane ruler. We are out of here. Thank you!” exclaimed the Knight.

“By the way, I’m keeping all of the dowry and everything both of you own except the clothes on your backs.” said the Duke.

“Thank you” said the Knight.

The vine cuttings stayed behind. Locally the varietal is called ‘Roussette’. This comes from the French word ‘roux’ which refers to a mixture of flour and butter used to thicken sauces. The undersides of the leaves of Altesse, unlike most vinifera grapes, are an ivory hue reminiscent of the color of an uncooked roux.

The wine produced from Altesse in the Alps is noble if not royal. Aromatic, piquant, subtly floral, it is light to medium in body, dry but also luscious and succulent. As a wine perhaps not unlike how a sixteen year-old Princess might be as compared to a mature queen.