Mendoza

The Province

Mendoza is a magical place. In the rain shadow of the Andes Mountains, it is a desert with two beautiful oases. The lowest point in the barren eastern desert is barely 100 feet above sea level. The highest point, the summit of Mount Aconcagua at 22,835 feet, is also highest point in the Western Hemisphere. 1.7 million people live in Mendoza.

This is a prosperous province. Grapes (for table, juice, juice concentrate and raisins as well as wine) are the largest agricultural product, but other fruits and vegetables combined are just as important. Grain feeds cattle and pigs while sheep and goats graze. There are both factories and chemical plants. Petroleum is the single largest industry.

The City

One million people live in Mendoza. Founded in 1561, it is old, spacious and beautiful. The outskirts have slums but no worse than some in America, with electric lines and antennas connected to the tiny houses. Argentines speak of ‘pobreza con dignidad’ (poverty with dignity).

The center of the city is a treasure. One of every ten blocks is a park and these are clean and beautifully maintained. Most houses are of modest size, but elegant. There are few tall buildings, giving the city a human dimension. It is not ‘fast’ like New York, but there is a sense of purposeful energy.

Vineyards & Wine

Mendoza’s wine industry is to Argentina what California’s is to the U.S. It produces 75% of Argentina’s wine and dominates quality and reputation. 347,000 acres yield 150 million cases, an average of 5.5 tons/acre (California averages 7).

The key to quality in Mendoza is usually elevation. The higher vineyards are cooler, steeper and windier, with lower yields. Most vineyards below 1500 feet give ordinary wine. The ‘tipping point’ for quality is considered 3300 feet (1000 metres), although much fine and great wine is grown from 800 metres, lower in the southern vineyards. Growers planting this high are serious about quality. Mendoza’s has five districts: North, East, Central, Valle de Uco and South. Four districts surround the city, one of the two oases. The southern district is around San Rafael, the other oasis.

The dwindling Northern district, just north of the city, is the least important. Most of its vineyards, planted to Criolla and Cereza, are farmed for juice and concentrate.

The Eastern district 20 - 70 miles east of the city is the largest and most productive. The vineyards are flat and sandy, at lower elevations. Most wines are robust reds, with large plantings of Bonarda, Sangiovese and Tempranillo to go with the ubiquitous Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. However recently efforts have been made to improve quality. Some parcels on chalky soil now yield good Chardonnay and Torrontes.

The Central district runs in a band east, south and west of the city. It is the most varied in quality, with two distinct sub-districts. Between the Eastern district and the city is Maipu, the most productive area. In the eastern half of Maipu there are good Malbec, Bonarda and Torrontes at reasonable prices. Nearer the city there is some better Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Maipu is an interesting place for bargain hunters rather than seekers of great wine.

South and west of Mendoza is Lujan de Cuyo. This is known as the ‘First Zone’, where Argentina’s wine industry was born. Some of the oldest Malbec vineyards here produce wines of the highest quality and reputation. Within Lujan de Cuyo is Perdriel, a village whose lovely, Tolkienesque name heralds some of the world’s greatest wines produced from Malbec.

Southwest of the city, Valle de Uco’s name is misleading as these are the highest vineyards in Mendoza. This is a small district of huge potential. Here is where both multinationals with a reputation for quality and ambitious local producers are planting ever higher, striving to make great wines.

Malbec dominates planting, but there are wonderful Cabernets as well. Among whites, Chardonnay is joined by Semillon of world-class quality (maybe the quality can spur a revival of this great, neglected varietal). Fine Merlot and suprisingly Syrah are found here as well.

The Southern district is distinct both geographically and in the types of wines produced. It is 120 miles south of the other districts. Although the vineyards lack elevation, a wind tunnel from the Andes makes this the second coolest district.

By Mendoza standards, this is white wine country. Chenin Blanc has been ubiquitous but fine Chardonnay, Torrontes and Tocai Friuliano are replacing it. Good Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown offering cool climate finesse.

Mendoza’s prominence in the world of wine is relatively new but growing at an astonishing pace. As Argentina’s economy recovers and wine quality improves, Mendoza will take its place among the world’s most renowned vineyards.