Torres d’Anguix – Ribera del Duero    

There Can Be Arrogance & Pretention in the World of Wine.

It happens. A man (or a family, rarely a woman) makes a pile of money. He purchases vineyards and/or plantable land in a prestigious district. A comically monumental winery is built from scratch. One or more high-profile consultants are hired. Soon thereafter an expensively packaged and priced new wine brand is launched, the price determined by the owner’s desire to recoup his investment as quickly as possible. Over the past several decades, the Napa Valley has suffered massive infestations.

Ribera del Duero has not. However one imposing new winery has recently been built on a hilltop in Anguix, in the heart of Ribera’s ‘Golden Triangle’, the best terroir of this increasingly renowned district. The differences with many of the new Napa wineries are subtle but important.

Ribera del Duero

For centuries Spanish wine meant Rioja. About 150 years ago what has become Spain’s most famous winery, Vega Sicilia, was established in Ribera del Duero, 100 miles west-southwest of Rioja in not dissimilar terroir. However the principal varietal was Cabernet and the winemaking totally unique. Vega Sicilia became famous and renowned. Ribera del Duero did not.

Thirty years ago Alejandro Fernandez established Pesquera in the district. Varietals and winemaking were within Spanish norms, just done better and with infinitely more care. Now other growers had a role model. A cascade of new producers and improved old ones followed Fernandez’ lead. Rioja has made a comeback; Priorato has burst on the scene with a small number of massively concentrated wines. But for quality and quantity, Ribera del Duero is probably Spain’s top Denominación.

Torres de Anguix

The Rubio Garcia family built and own the winery and vineyards. They are based in Madrid, and made their money in the clothing business. They started buying vineyards and land in Ribera in 1982.

However this was a homecoming, not an invasion. Rubio Garcias have been winegrowers in Ribera since at least 1752 and many relatives are still there, farming small parcels and working in the industry. Angel Rubio Garcia, middle of three brothers, moved to Ribera to oversee the family’s new project.

The Bodega was built in 1999. Today 255 acres are owned, all but 37 of younger vines. However an additional 99 acres of old vines (many owned by relatives) are under long term lease. The parcels are dispersed within the best parts of Ribera, allowing the Rubio Garcias to learn about and benefit from the different terroirs. Rather than prestigious consultants, Angel hired the best, most experienced local vineyard workers and cellar rats he could find. The head of viticulture is a distant cousin who held the same position for 11 years with a top producer. Head winemaker Pedro A. Elena Viadero (‘Perico’) has over 20 years of experience at Ribera’s finest Bodegas.

Angel took 17 years to release his first wine. He thinks this is normal. First you plant. Four years later you pick your first grapes, but the vines are too young to produce quality. Over the next dozen years you sell all of your wine in bulk while you learn. Then you bottle some wine (much will still be sold in bulk for years to come).

In the 18th year, you begin to sell wine in bottle and hopefully turn an operating profit.

I asked Angel how long it would take to recoup the investment. He shrugged “We are building an Estate that we hope will be in the family for a century, with luck longer. We need to make a profit. We do not think about recouping the investment. It is not for sale.”

No Arrogance or Pretention Here

I am predisposed to prefer small wineries to large, families with experience rather than investment capital. As I drove up to Torres d’Anguix on its high hill and saw the imposing new winery with its twin towers, I was dubious. Clearly too much money had been lavished on a showcase facility.

I was wrong. I left after my first visit convinced that this was an estate of real merit. On my second visit, I received the strongest possible reinforcement. The new top wine, 2001 D’Anguix, was just being released. I proposed a blind tasting of D’Anguix side by side with the top wines of Ribera. We tasted D’Anguix and five other wines, which sell for 50 - 200% more. D’Anguix finished last, but only barely. In other tastings like this, winemakers and especially owners can be defensive and full of excuses: Tasted too young, too old, too warm, too cold, wrong order, bad bottle. After we took off the brown paper bags, Angel and Perico looked at each other and spoke almost in unison: “There’s a lot of work to do.”

The Wines

There are five reds, and starting with ’05 a rose as well. All wines are 100% Tempranillo.

Torres de Anguix Tinto
This is the basic, unoaked red wine of the Estate. Produced from vines 10 - 15 years old (wines from younger vines are sold in bulk), yields are about 3 1/2 tons per acre. Production is 10,000 cases.

Torres de Anguix Barrica
Produced from vines 15 - 20 years old, it is aged 6 months in 1, 2 and 3 year old barrels, American and eastern European. This is the benchmark wine of the Estate, the oak subtle and the wine fine. Yields 3 tons/acre. Production 12,000 cases.

Torres de Anguix Crianza
Produced from vines 20 - 40 years old, this wine is aged one year in new, 1, 2 and 3 year old American oak barrels. A wine of real depth, it has nuances rarely found in a wine of this price. Yields 2 - 2 1/2 tons per acre. Production 5000 cases.

Torres de Anguix Riserva
This is produced from vines 35 - 70 years old. It is only made in good vintages. The wine is aged 18 months in half new, half 1 year barrels, half French and half American. It is only released when ready to drink. Production 1500 cases.

D’Anguix
This is a new wine, the Estate’s top bottling. 2001 is the first vintage and has just been released. This is produced from vines 70 - 95 years old. It is made only in fine vintages. The wine is aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Production in 2001 was 5000 cases!