Cooperativa Agricola de la Germandat – Vilalba    

Cooperativa Agricola de la Germandat
Vilalba dels Arcs

The village is in the mountains of south Catalonia. This region is famous for Cooperatives. Catalans combine intense individuality with a very strong sense of community cooperation. Most Catalan villagers belong to Coops, and Coops are usually the most important economic entities in Catalan villages. Vilalba has a population of 750. The Coop has almost 200 members. In other words, almost every family in the village is a member.

The Coop produces wine, olives and olive oil, nuts and fruit. Wine is the most important product.

Vineyards

The great grape here is Garnacha (Grenache), native to the region. The great grape here is Cariñena (Carignan), native to the region. The great grape here is Tempranillo (Ull de Lliebre in Catalan), native to Rioja. It’s nice to have 3 great grapes and this luxury is reflected in the wines. Recently international varietals have been planted. Syrah is logical, Merlot and Cabernet less so. So far it seems to be Cabernet that works best.

The principal white grape is Macabeo. Whites are emphatically not the strength of Vilalba. At best they can be adequate. At worst, I would ask for water. Simultaneous efforts are underway to improve the whites and also to reduce the acreage devoted to them. However a first planting of Sauvignon Blanc looks promising.

The ’05 vintage may see production of some rosé, which could make a lot of sense. Catalonia also specializes in aged, oxidized sweet wines, many using the name Rancio. They got the last letter wrong. This is the destructive side of Catalonia, writ large.

Most of the red vineyards are Grenache. There are a variety of clones, with some of the younger parcels planted to Lladoner Pelut, a fine clone becoming recognized as a separate varietal. Lladoner wines are slightly lighter in color than Grenache and usually harvest with half a degree less alcohol, but they achieve a great finesse with some spicy notes reminiscent of Syrah. There is no lack of color or alcohol here so Lladoner may become an important part of the top wines of Vilalba.

Carignan is the next varietal. The vines are older, with some parcels over 75 years. Carignan is regaining its reputation again after almost a century of being considered inferior. It seems like the grandfather of Mediterranean reds, with characteristics of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre combined in one varietal. Few Carignan wines are long-lived but the best of them can truly be called great wines. In 2001 Vilalba made a single new French oak barrel of a pure Carignan, aged 2 years before bottling. This wine ‘2 Finques’ has attained legendary status among Spanish wine geeks. There will be a 2004, but more of it, oak aged but for slightly less time and not in 100% new French barrels.

Tempranillo, Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot account for 20% of the red vineyards. These are important as accents, spices to the majestic flavors of Grenache and Carignan in their heartland.

Cellar

The Vilalba cellar has recently been expanded and renovated. You can’t find a winery anywhere with a more complete range of equipment. Ancient barrels comprise a Solera system used for basic dry red as well as the dessert wines. Spanking new stainless steel conical fermentors are state-of-the-art. 50 year old underground cuves are relined with ceramic at the first sign of wear. As with many Coops in France, the citizens of Vilalba have recognized that in a world awash with wine only quality can preserve their livelihood. The distinctive terroir takes care of the rest.

The Wines

There are now seven different reds; 2 Finques will make eight (only reds are of interest to the American market)! As this is a relatively new agency, the selection of wines imported is in flux.

Negre dels Arcs is a light quaffer for local consumption.

Next is ARCS. This is our own blend. The ’03 was a great success despite a label whose colors were badly misprinted. In the very hot ’03 vintage, it was 88% Grenache with 12% Tempranillo. In the cooler, longer ’04 growing season Vilalba was able to offer me some intensely flavored Syrah; the final blend is 73% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 12% Tempranillo.

Faristol is is Vilalba’s entry level wine beyond the carafe level. Unlike ARCS, it is pure Grenache. Suprem is Grenache from older vines blended with Tempranillo and Syrah. This sees six months of barrel age, in new to three year old American oak. The goal is not to add oak flavors as much as to give the wine some roundness and polish from gentle oxidation. The Spanish refer to this as “semi-Crianza”. Suprem is a basic Vilalba wine for HPS.

Fill de Temps is old vine Grenache blended with about 20% each Carignan and Cabernet. It is aged 8 months in two and three year old barrels, mostly American. It is good, but the next level is a big step up. Fill de Temps Gran Seleccio is a selection of the best Fill de Temps, aged a year in 1/2 French, 1/2 American oak, 1/2 new and 1/2 one year old. This is a powerhouse that proudly proclaims its origins.

Vall de Berrus is the top wine, at least until the next release of 2 Finques. It is made with more Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It is aged almost two years in 100% new French oak. I find it too international as well as too expensive – almost twice the price of Fill de Temps Gran Seleccio but with more oak and less character. Vilalba makes very little of it and Barcelona restaurants easily absorb most of the production.